Amanda Miller
Columnist
Lettuce Eat Local
“Why?” you might ask. To which I could respond, “Why? Y!” It’s not often the question gives its own answer, but in this obviously made-up conversational scenario, the homophones work well enough. The why is that it is time for Y, the penultimate letter of the alphabet; and there is a clear winner to claim today’s topic: yogurt.
If by chance you again ask, “Why?”, there are in fact several layers of reasons yogurt is the answer. Perhaps most plain to see is that in a dairy farm family like ours, it just makes sense.
Good yogurt is based on only two ingredients: milk and yogurt culture. Sure, flavor it in a thousand and one ways, but don’t make the yogurt part itself some sort of concoction. There are apparently not as many labeling regulations as would seem helpful in this instance, and commercial yogurts can get their texture from additions like modified food starch, cornstarch, guar gum, and other thickening agents instead of the culturing process. I’m not going to jump on the bandwagon of vilifying those ingredients, but clearly they are not natural components of yogurt.
We give quite a few tours of the dairy throughout the year to various groups and demographics, and sometimes I make brown-sugar-vanilla yogurt for our guests. It’s fun to watch the kids’ faces when they try it: some are shocked, clearly more used to very mild, tang-less yogurt; and some are shocked, in appreciative awe that something made from those stinky cows’ milk is so good. (A generous hand with the brown sugar doesn’t hurt.)
Greek yogurt is enjoying its heyday in American culture (pun intended) currently, thanks to its higher protein content. While it is definitely found in Greece, and all over the Mediterranean, greek yogurt is actually just regular yogurt that has been drained to remove some of the lactose-y liquid, called whey. It’s fundamentally the same thing, just thicker because it’s concentrated, and consequently with more protein and fat, and fewer carbs, per serving. Or, it should be the same thing, but again commercially it’s cheaper and easier to just thicken it with additives and change the nutrition content some other whey (I mean, way).
I actually love most storebought yogurts that I’ve tried, and I’d rather people eat whatever’s in the grocery store than not eat yogurt at all. But I have a limitless supply of milk available, and making yogurt provides its own yogurt culture to use the next time, so that’s all I need for endless yogurt. I used to make it in my largest four-gallon pot, and while I have come to realize that just because I can doesn’t mean I should, I still make yogurt two gallons at a time — which is the perfect amount for our family. Once I strain it, and get some to friends, we are left with about a gallon.
Even though when I say “our family,” I do mostly mean baby Ki and me. Brian and Benson partake sometimes, whereas Kiah and I happily eat yogurt every day. For being all of 21 pounds, that little girl can put down the yogurt when she wants to (and throw it down on the floor, or up in her hair, the other times). I sometimes flavor it for her, but I have been slightly surprised and quite pleased that she has a bit of a sour tooth, loving the plain yogurt in all its tangy glory. She dips anything in it, including her whole hand; guzzles down the little “lassis” I make her of just milk and yogurt; and crunches on frozen plain yogurt popsicles.
I know it’s a stage that won’t last, and soon ketchup will be her food group of choice like her brother (that’s when I ask, “Why?!”). But until then, it’s plain yogurt for me and her, and brown-sugar vanilla for the others.
Muffin-Tin Yogurt Tarts
I just taught a yogurt-making class, and so all sorts of yogurty things were on my brain anyway — then my mom asked for a fun party snack to do with some college girls, and I gave her this idea too. She always makes homemade yogurt too, so we’ve both been giving these treats our own spins: the toppings get to be whatever you want! Letting everyone make their own adds to the fun.
Prep tips: getting fruit of different colors and textures makes for a more beautiful, tasty tart — but sometimes simple is also as good as anything.
about 12 ounces tart or pie pastry dough, unbaked
1 quart homemade/plain yogurt, sweetened with plenty of brown sugar and Mexican vanilla
1-2 cups fresh fruit, sliced thinly
local honey
zest of 2 limes or clementines, rubbed with 2 tablespoons sugar
other toppings: toasted nuts, chopped pecans, shredded coconut, etc.
Divide pie crust dough into 12 portions. Roll/pat into muffin tins, making sure to come up the sides. Chill; then bake at 375° for 15 minutes, or until lightly browned. Let cool, then remove to cooling racks to cool fully.
Just before serving, dollop some yogurt into each tart shell. Decorate with fruit, drizzle with honey, and sprinkle with just a bit of sugared zest and other toppings. Savor each bite.
