Amanda Miller
Columnist
Lettuce Eat Local
Whether it was appropriate or not, I waited until the others were all chewing before I told them what was in their mouth. I’m not exactly sure what my five teammates thought that afternoon in a Kenyan desert, which speaks well to how effectively they handled their reaction to eating roast goat. To be fair, they knew it was nyama choma ya mbuzi; they just hadn’t known it was a special part of the billy goat.
I think my Turkana hosts were being genuinely generous when they told me that particular portion was reserved for special guests…although looking back now I realize they may have just been playing a trick on their naive little white friend.
Often when there’s only one of something available, it becomes more of a delicacy. Sometimes it’s primarily the rarity that catapults it into that category, sometimes it is due to heightened quality, and sometimes it’s an indistinguishable interplay of the two. For example, when we butcher, I see the ratio of tenderloin to ground beef — I do prefer filet, dare I say obviously, but also there’s only so much to be had so it kind of feels like you have to enjoy it. This isn’t quite as common, but I’m certain the very bottom slice of pineapple is the sweetest, and conversely the very top portion of mango.
There are only two fish cheeks per fish, and they are purported to be particularly tender and delicately flavored. In many cultures, calf, lamb, or pig brain are also considered delicacies, and of course there’s only one available per animal. I’m not personally into that, but I will always volunteer to eat the turkey heart when it comes in that little package with gizzards and liver.
Speaking of turkey, that’s what started this whole thought process for me. Obviously it was Thanksgiving last week, so I’m guessing a lot of you also saw those “bonus” turkey parts. By chance I learned a new term for the turkey tail: “the pope’s nose.” It intrigued me so much that I had to do some research, especially since learning that this fowl tail structure is more academically labelled the pygostyle: clinching the idea that it is perfect for my P-focused article.
I discovered that that funny, fatty triangular section could be called any number of people’s noses, from the parson’s to the bishop’s to the sultan’s. The perspective of this proboscis-based etymology is ambiguous, with different theories heading in opposite directions. Either the turkey tail began to be called the pope’s/parson’s nose since it would be saved as a fleshy, fatty delicacy for the guest of honor — or it reminded people of a pompous dignitary’s fleshy, fatty nose stuck up in the air.
As with all of life, a lot depends on perspective. It would be easy to toss that floppy protuberance or to think it’s gross, thinking it’s both fowl and foul, although someone might consider that same tail a prize portion. We get to choose the things we are thankful for!
I may never consider that (very chewy, very charred) piece of goat a culinary delicacy as far as taste is concerned, but I do remember it as a prized bite. And I’ll remember to selflessly save the pope’s nose for any guests.
The Pope’s Poultry Broth
Most of the commenters on the forum where I saw turkey tail called pope’s nose said it’s a great addition in bone broth. I’m almost as thankful for the turkey bones for making stock as I am for the actual roast turkey, so that works perfectly for me. Soup can be transformed from good to fabulous with a quality broth, and other “delicacy” bits like the neck or roasty skin give good depth. People often say not to salt the broth so you can control it when you use it, but I figure I’m never going to want unsalted broth, so I go ahead and give it some.
Prep tips: If I get enough, I like to pressure-can my broth, but having a bunch is also a good excuse to make lots of soup, which I am also a fan of any time of year but especially now.
1 set of turkey bones, tail included of course
a splash of apple cider vinegar
2 onions, peeled and halved
a couple celery ribs
a couple carrots (or peelings from scrubbed carrots…)
optional: a jalapeño
optional: dash of liquid smoke
peppercorns, salt
handfuls of fresh parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme
Add all ingredients to a large pot or pressure cooker, and cover just so with cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 4-5 hours until everything is very tender, or pressure-cook according to manufacturer’s directions. Use in cooking, or if you’re one of those people, sip it as a hot beverage.
