UPCOMING EVENTS
Kansas Turf Conference in conjunction with KNLA December 4, 5 & 6 Hilton Garden Inn, Manhattan
Mark the date to attend the Kansas Turfgrass Conference in conjunction with KNLA on December 4, 5 & 6 in Manhattan
The conference is an excellent way to learn about turf, nursery and landscape management, visit with old friends, network with new ones, and see all the latest equipment and supplies from local and national vendors.
The conference has been approved for Commercial pesticide recertification hours:
1 Core hour 3A – 7 hrs 3B – 7 hrs
International Society of Arboriculture CEUs and GCSAA education points will also be available by attending the conference.
Download a copy of the program, get exhibitor information, or register online http://www.kansasturfgrassfoundation.com/annual-ktf-conference.html
FRUIT
Winterizing Strawberry Plants
Winter can be a difficult time for strawberries in Kansas. Plants
need time to become adjusted to cold weather and will gradually become
more cold resistant as fall progresses. Strawberry plants are able to
withstand colder temperatures in the middle of the winter than in the
fall before they have gone through much cold weather. For example, if
temperatures suddenly plummet below 20 degrees F before the plants
harden to the cold, they can be severely damaged. A drop to 15 degrees F
may kill them. Hardened plants can withstand such temperatures with ease.
Normally, strawberries should be mulched for the winter around
Thanksgiving. Mulching plants helps protect strawberries not only from
low temperatures but also from heaving damage. Heaving damage occurs
when the alternate freezing and thawing common in Kansas winters heave
plants out of the ground where the roots are exposed and the plants die
from lack of water.
Wheat straw makes good mulch if it is clean (free from weed seed
and wheat kernals). The straw should be spread over the plants to a
depth of 3 inches. Shake the slabs of straw apart so there are no large
compressed chunks. This straw mulch not only helps protect the plants
over winter but can also help avoid damage from late spring frosts by
delaying blooming a few days in the spring. Mulch should be removed
gradually in the spring as plants begin new growth. Remove enough so
leaves can be seen.
Leaving some mulch in place keeps the berries off the ground and
conserves moisture. Also, mulch left in the aisles helps protect pickers
from muddy conditions. (Ward Upham)
FLOWERS
Poinsettia Care
Modern poinsettia varieties stay attractive for a long time if
given proper care. Place your poinsettia in a sunny window or the
brightest area of the room, but don’t let it touch cold window panes.
The day temperature should be 65 to 75 degrees F. with 60 to 65 degrees
at night. Temperatures above 75 degrees will shorten bloom life, and
below 60 degrees may cause root rot. Move plants away from drafty
windows at night or draw drapes between them to avoid damage from the cold.
Poinsettias are somewhat finicky in regard to soil moisture. Avoid
overwatering because poinsettias do not like “wet feet.” On the other
hand, if the plant is allowed to wilt, it will drop some leaves. So how
do you maintain proper moisture? Examine the potting soil daily by
sticking your finger about one-half inch deep into the soil. If it is
dry to this depth, the plant needs water. When it becomes dry to the
touch, water the plant with lukewarm water until some water runs out of
the drainage hole, then discard the drainage water. (Ward Upham)
Are Poinsettias Poisonous?
At times, an old time rumor is resurrected that poinsettias are
poisonous. This is NOT true. Though there may be an allergic reaction to
the milky sap, there has never been a recorded case of poisoning. This
rumor has been so persistent that members of the Society of American
Florists have sought to dispel it by eating poinsettia leaves for the press.
The AMA Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants states that the
poinsettia “has been found to produce either no effect (orally or
topically) or occasional cases of vomiting. This plant does not contain
the irritant diterpenes” which is the toxin in other members of the
genus Euphorbia to which poinsettia belongs. (Ward Upham)
MISCELLANEOUS
Ashes in the Garden
You may have heard that using wood ashes on your garden can help
make the soil more fertile. Though ashes do contain significant amounts
of potash, they contain little phosphate and no nitrogen. Most Kansas
soils are naturally high in potash and do not need more. Also, wood
ashes will raise the pH of our soils, often a drawback in Kansas where
soils tend toward high pH anyway. Therefore, wood ashes add little
benefit, and may harm, many Kansas soils. In most cases it is best to
get rid of them. (Ward Upham)
Storing Power Equipment for the Winter
Late fall or early winter is a good time to service power equipment
such as mowers, tillers and garden tractors. Run the equipment out of
gas or treat the existing gas with a stabilizer as untreated gas can
deteriorate over time. If using a stabilizer, run the engine long enough
for untreated gas in the carburetor bowl to be burned and replaced. This
is also a good time to replace the oil (and filter, if present) since
the engine is warm. Check and replace the spark plug if necessary. Some
gardeners will also apply a light, sprayable oil into the cylinder
through the spark plug hole. Check and clean air filters and replace if
necessary. Many mowers and tillers will have a foam prefilter that can
become filthy with use. If allowed to become too dirty, engines will run
poorly or may not run at all.
Sharpen blades, clean tines, tighten screws, replace broken parts
and do all the other things needed to keep equipment in good shape.
Though such maintenance takes some time and effort, it pays for itself
by reducing frustration and lost time due to poorly performing equipment
during a hectic spring. (Ward Upham)
Why Do Houseplants Lose Leaves After Being Brought Inside?
Newly bought houseplants or those brought in from outside often
lose at least a portion of their leaves. In order to understand why this
occurs, we need to look at how these plants are grown and what the plant
needs to do to adapt to its new environment. Houseplants are normally
produced either under shade outdoors in southern states or in
greenhouses. Also, many homeowners move their houseplants outside during
the summer. Regardless, the plants receive much more sunlight than they
do in an indoor environment. Research done in Florida in the late 1970s
revealed that tropical plants grown under high light conditions produce
‘sun leaves’ while those grown under low light conditions have ‘shade
leaves.’ These leaf types differ structurally in that sun leaves have
less chlorophyll (the substance that plants use to convert sunlight to
energy) and the chlorophyll that is present is located deeper inside the
leaf. Sun leaves also tend to be thick, small and numerous while shade
leaves are more thin, larger, and fewer in number. When plants are moved
from one light condition to another they need time to adjust. This
process is known as acclimatization. If they are forced to acclimatize
too quickly, they will drop their sun leaves and produce a new set of
shade leaves. If the acclimatization process is slower and less drastic,
the plant can convert their sun leaves to the shade leaves that do
better under low light. If going from shade to sun, this process is
reversed.
Some houseplants are acclimatized before they are sold but many are
not. So how do we help our new houseplants or those moved inside
acclimatize to their new home environment? Houseplants should start out
in an area of the home that receives plenty of light and then gradually
moved to their permanent, darker location. This process should take 4 to
8 weeks depending on the degree of difference in light levels between
the initial and final location of the plant. Remember, plants need to be
acclimatized whether they are moved from a sunny location to one that
receives less light or from shade to sun. Understanding plant processes
allows us to anticipate potential problems. Acclimatization gives our
houseplants a greater chance of retaining leaves and avoiding the
stress of completely replacing them. (Ward Upham)
Contriubtors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
Division of Horticulture
1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton
Manhattan, KS 66506
(785) 532-6173
For questions or further information, contact: [email protected] OR
This newsletter is also available on the World Wide Web at:
http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html
