Amanda Miller
Columnist
Lettuce Eat Local
Formulating a concise definition of magic almost feels like we first need to invoke some type of magic to boil it all down. To assess and categorize the panoply of lore, thoughts, theology, and gradations of the subject, and then to arrive at any sort of clear and socially agreed upon articulation therein, would require a certain level of supernatural input.
Is magic of Merlin, Harry Potter, Aslan, or Gandalf? There are many different levels of “magic” that others may subscribe to, but I won’t/can’t even go there, since I do not study or believe in them. All that to give the disclaimer that I believe in the supernatural power of Christ, and references to magic otherwise are literary, card-trick-style, or facetious.
The kitchen is often my magical milieu. The symbolic tool of magic for me there is not a pointy hat, the One Ring, or a broomstick. Since it does everything from mixing quick breads to meatballs to softened butter, I often introduce my fancy-looking spiraled dough whisk as my magic wand — but anyone who’s stepped foot in my kitchen knows my Vitamix blender is my real magic worker. I have been under its spell ever since I bought it at the State Fair a decade ago, and I have no intentions of ever trying to escape.
My blender is the catalyst for sorts of entrancing culinary transformations, although it doesn’t hold a total monopoly on the magic. The Bosch mixer turns gloppy egg whites into pillowy billowy meringue or flour and milk into stretchy, supple dough; the coffeepot takes only beans and water to create an elixir of life; even the oven, whose power is often overlooked, quietly transmutes all sorts and forms of substances in enchanting ways if we only choose to take notice.
And the dishwasher, now there is a truly magical appliance. Brian and I didn’t have one for the first seven years of our marriage, and rarely do I press the start button without a moment of awe in recognition of the metamorphosis about to occur. Abracadabra indeed.
Sometimes it’s hard to identify the source of the magic, to distinguish whether it’s the tool, the ingredient, or the process, but it is more important to notice and appreciate these small moments of culinary enchantment than to delineate. You can literally hear the moment cream converts into butter, see the milk transmogrify into ricotta before your very eyes, feel the difference when sticky dough slowly changes into kneaded dough, smell the rich nuttiness when butter suddenly turns into browned butter. And then you get to taste all of it! Our senses tell us this kitchen magic is both mysterious and yet completely tangible, more material than otherworldly.
There are no spells, no incantations, no magic wands (except for that dough whisk, of course). At times certain equipment and niche ingredients come into play, but other times the simplest ingredients and set-up yield magical results — just ask Benson what happened when we experimented with baking soda and vinegar last week.
What we need more is simply the ability to notice and take joy in the little moments of everyday magic, the things that make getting food on the table a little more fun and fantastic.
Oh, and a dishwasher.
Xanthan Gum Italian Dressing
This recipe is full of magic, plus bonus X factor points for using my VitamiX. The dressing tastes just like Olive Garden’s, which is miraculous since I’m allergic to garlic and can never have theirs anymore; vinegar is essentially a magic potion since it does so many things, and I’ve long considered mayonnaise a magic sauce. The xanthan gum is the only component you might have to seek out, but it’s a fun ingredient to have around: often used in gluten-free and non-dairy baking, just a tiny bit of xanthan also works as an emulsifier or instant thickener (I use it in homemade soft-serve which is a whole other level of magic). Adding xanthan to this recipe keeps the dressing from separating, as well as providing a nice mouthfeel without much oil.
Prep tips: for the garlicky version, add ¼-½ teaspoon garlic powder.
½ cup water
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup white vinegar
1 oz parmesan or romano
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon Italian herbs
½ teaspoon salt
1/16 -⅛ teaspoon xanthan gum
Process all ingredients in a blender.
